The Call Of Isukuti Drums On The Horns Of Bulls
Many weekends, the residents of Khayega, in Kakamega County, sleep with an ear on the ground. The first strike of dawn carries on it the howl of a warrior’s horn, the deep mourn of a vexed bull- charged and fiery. Such sounds are loaded with rituals and frenzy that jerks senses, bringing blood to a sudden massive surge.
Even the oldest, let go of the pain in their bones, pick their special clubs, esichong’o and head out, girating to the rolling tunes of the Isukuti drums.
The Isukuti slices through the thick canopies of Kakamega Forest, sending birds flying, butterflies dancing and monkeys chattering in the morning sun. The purity of the forest air, fills the lungs of men and women who can’t miss this experience which is old as time but new and fresh every time.
Nothing beats this event, not the cry of the ikhongo Murwi, The Crying Stone, not the skin crawling flow of River Isiukhu.
Isukuti awakens even the spirits of ancestors. The spirits of the lame beg to be released from their bodies, women clap their behinds rythimically, keeping a significant distance from the charged bulls.
Children, unless accompanied by adults keep off. And the frenzy trail to escort Bampe, the village Bull, The beast snorting smoke, to Malinya Stadium to face Muhanduli of Ikolomani Village is usually more scenic than watching a group of rattle snakes from Kakamega Forest.
Bulls represent villages. Every village trains a heifer from a tender age to grow into a fighting beast. It takes a special person, a man for that matter, rooted in culture and aware of the neccessary rituals to train a worthy beast.
The man devotes his life to feeding the bull, talking to it, blowing herbs on it, riling it, provoking it, fuming it up until it’s ready to face an opponent from a neighboring village. Such bulls are named after famous great men or heroes from the villages and allover the world.
The bullfights attracts locals and non-locals. It is second to football when it comes to fans and those who enjoy it. The music and dance is the icing that the whole excitement is served with. The trainer presents a well prepared bull and the fans psyche it up, riles it and offers it drink to make it fight spiritedly.
Libation of local brew, Busaa is poured to invoke the ancestors. The bull that manages to make the other run for it’s life, is crowned the winner. The loser is sometimes speared or clubbed to death depending on the occasion. It’s meat is shared unceremoniously.
You might want to experience the whole event in person, it is exciting, spirit evoking and soul charging. Don’t just read about, visit Kakamega…
Emily Khalayi Wekulo
